Day 12 - Rome
Spend the morning exploring the grandeur of ancient Rome, starting with the Colosseum.
A word to the wise: keep an eye on your purse or wallet here. Ancient Rome is as popular with pickpockets as it is with tourists.
Built in 72AD by Vespasian, the Colosseum seated 50,000 spectators. In remarkably good shape considering it was used as a marble quarry for
Renaissance construction, the stadium contains 80 arched entrances. From the top, you can see the underground passageways through which lions
entered the arena.
You’ll need to use your imagination to appreciate the Forum, although a decent map and the little red guide book called "Rome, Past and Present"
are helpful. Ours dates from the 1970s.
You should be able to enter the Forum across from the Colosseum. But if that entrance is closed -- sometimes it’s only an exit -- take Via dei Fori
Imperiali to Via Salara Vecchia.
If you enter from the Colosseum, you’ll see the Temple of Venus and Rome directly ahead of you. A quick left, followed by a quick right will put
you on Via Sacra, ancient Rome’s main drag. You’ll see the Arch of Titus before you and Santa Francesca Romana on your right.
To climb the Palatine Hill, which will reward you with wonderful views of the Circus Maximus, the Capitoline Hill, the Forum, and the Colosseum,
take a left at the Arch of Titus.
Take a right and you’ll see the Basilica of Constantine and Maxentius. Follow Via Sacra as it bears left and the Temple of Romulus will be on
your right and the House of the Vestal Virgins and Temple of Vesta on your left. Continue along Via Sacra to the west end of the Forum where
you’ll see the Temple of Castor and Pollux and the Arch of Septimus Severus.
As you wander through the ruins, try to imagine how magnificent the thriving ancient capital must have been.
Leave the Forum and walk to the Piazza del Campidoglio. Designed by Michelangelo, but not completed until the 17th century, the square at night
is one of the most magical places in Rome.
If time permits, visit the Capitoline Museums before lunch. There are two separate museums on either side of the piazza but both are included in
the same admission ticket. When you face Michelangelo’s magnificent staircase, the Palazzo Nuovo is on your right and the Palazzo dei
Conservatori is on your right. Both contain some of the finest ancient sculpture in the world.
The heart of the Palazzo Nuovo collection was given to the city in 1471 by Pope Sixtus IV. Here, you’ll see the bronze equestrian statue of
Marcus Aurelius -- the one on the square is a copy -- the Hall of the Philosophers featuring Roman copies of Greek originals, and the magnificent
"Dying Gaul".
The Palazzo Conservatori contains a colossal head of Constantine II, the Etruscan bronze of the she-wolf, and paintings by Caravaggio, Veronese,
and Titian.
When you’re ready for lunch, walk toward the Tiber to the old Jewish Ghetto. Vecchia Roma, and Piperno are charming places for lunch. And
Sora Lella on Isola Tiberina, the small island in the river, is especially appealing.
An alternative is to pick up supplies at Campo de Fiori and picnic on Isola Tiberina.
After lunch, return to your hotel for a siesta. On the way, go by Piazza Mattei to see one of Rome’s most delightful fountains. The Fontana delle
Tartarughe depicts four youths with their feet resting on the heads of four dolphins. The turtles may or may not have been added by Bernini.
In the late afternoon, head for the Gallerie Borghese in the Villa Borghese. You should have already made reservations. To conserve your strength,
consider taking a cab.
Built for Cardinal Scipione Borghese in 1605, the Villa and its park provide a wonderful escape from the city’s noise and exhaust. It’s a pleasant
place for a stroll, or you can rent a bike.
The Villa, which now houses the Gallerie Borghese, closed in 1984 for restroration and didn’t reopen until 1997. Today, it provides the
opportunity to see some of Rome’s incomparable art treasures, including Bernini’s "Apollo and Daphne" and "Rape of Prosperpine," Titian’s "Sacred
and Profane Love," and paintings by Caravaggio and Raphael.
Also on the Villa Borghese grounds, Villa Guilia houses the National Museum of Etruscan Art. The beautiful Renaissance villa contains a
magnificent sarcophagus of a husband and wife dating from the 6th century BC, and a reconstructed Etruscan temple.
Between the Villa Borghese Park and the Piazza del Popolo, the Pincio Gardens provide one of Rome’s best sunset overlooks. The romantic
appeal is undeniable and the views of the city at dusk are unbeatable.
Walk down to Piazza del Popolo, one of Rome’s most unified squares. There’s an Egyptian obelisk dating from the 13th century BC on the
piazza. The early Renaissance church is Santa Maria del Popolo. It’s worth looking inside to see the two Caravaggios, the frescoes by
Pinturicchio, and the Chigi Chapel designed by Raphael.
The early evening stroll from Piazza del Popolo along Via del Corso is one of Rome’s most popular. Enjoy watching stylish Romans taking their
passegiata.
For dinner, try L’Eau Vive near the Piazza delle Rotunda. Run by an order of Belgian nuns, the 17th-century palazzo is decorated with beautiful
frescoes. The food is French, the setting is lovely, and all combine to create a memorable experience.
After dinner, if you have any energy left, consider walking to Piazza Campidoglio. The views from here of the illuminated Forum and Colosseum
are truly special.
Day 13 - Rome
Despite Rome’s considerable charms, the heat and noise of the city can be tiring. So today, we recommend that you get out of town for the day.
If you’re not going to Pompei this visit, or even if you are, consider a day trip to Ostia Antica, the well-preserved ancient port city 20 miles from
Rome. For those interested in ancient history, it’s a fascinating excursion, easily reached by public transportation.
To get there, take the B Metro from Termini station toward L’Eur Fermi. Disembark at Magliana, get on the Lido subway line, and get off at Ostia
Antica. From there, it’s a short walk to the complex. Just follow the signs.
Since Romans could not be buried within the city walls, you’ll see some tombs before you enter the ruins. And a statue depicting winged victory.
The city was built around the 4th century BC as a military outpost guarding the mouth of the Tiber. The city -- which was once home to 100,000
Romans -- was abandoned after the harbor silted up and a malaria epidemic decimated the population.
The city was covered by sand for centuries, which helped to preserve it. Although the site is huge -- covering 10,000 acres -- the main street,
Decumanus Maximus, runs for a little over a mile.
The first thing you’ll see after entering the gate is the Baths of Neptune which houses a beautiful mosaic of the sea god in a chariot. There’s a
cafe nearby, where you can buy a guide to help you make the most of your visit.
The adjacent amphitheater dates from 12BC and seated 3,500 spectators. Throughout the site, you’ll see the remains of shops, cafes, apartment
buildings, baths, offices, and temples. There are many mosaics in wonderful condition. And it’s easy to grasp the layout of the city and imagine
the early inhibitants going about their daily routines.
When you get hungry, there’s a tratorria right next to the entrance to the ruins. Or you can walk across the bridge to the modern village of Ostia
Antica. There are a few restaurants there. You’ll see the 15th-century castle of Pope Julius II , who became Bishop of Ostia in 1483. There’s a
historical museum inside which documents Ostia during the middle ages.
Another alternative, particularly if gardens are your weakness, is to travel to Tivoli to visit Villa d’Este. You can get to Tivoli by train, suburban bus, or you can take a tour from Rome.
The son of Lucrezia Borgia and the grandson of Pope Alexander II, Cardinal Ippolito d’Este built Villa d’Este in the 1550s when he was, for all
intents and purposes, exiled to Tivoli by Julius III who appointed him governor.
The Renaissance Villa is unremarkable and the gardens are not as well-kept as they could be. But the marvelous grottoes and fountains are still
very appealing. The product of a brilliant landscaper and two hydraulic engineers, they are as much science as art. The first fountain -- the Rometta
-- was created to remind the homesick Cardinal of his beloved Rome. The Pantheon, the Colosseum, and structures from the Forum are carved from
volcanic tufa.
Walk down the Road of 100 Fountains, which take the shape of ships, Egyptian obelisks, or the d’Este coat of arms. The Fontana del’Ovato is an
egg-shaped waterfall which can be entered by a narrow footbridge. Bernini’s Great Chalice fountain and the Fountain of the Dragons follow.
The Fontana dell’Organo was once an organ in which water coursing through the pipes created different musical tones. Unfortunately, it no
longer plays music.
Although it’s a little run down, Villa d’Este’s cooling fountains and grottoes are still enjoyable on a hot day.
Also in Tivoli, Villa Gregoriana was created by Pope Gregory XVI. Not one to think small, the Pope diverted the flow of the local river in 1831.
The resulting waterfall cascases into a 180-ft deep gorge. There’s a circular walk looking out over the falls -- actually there are two -- and a path
that leads down into the canyon. It’s a gorgeous hike, but the return trip to the Temple of Vesta on the other side is very steep. If you plan to
undertake it, wear sturdy, waterproof shoes.
For many, the highlight of a trip to Tivoli is Hadrian’s Villa. Built as the Emperor’s retirement home in the second century AD, it is arguably the
most luxurious Roman villa ever built. An avid traveler, Hadrian incorporated many of the wonders he’d seen during his travels into the design of
the villa.
The 300-acres grounds are very pleasant, covered with olive trees and cypress. So consider bringing a picnic. There’s a pleasant trattoria outside
the gate if you prefer not to picnic.
Highlights of Hadrian’s Villa include the Maritime Theater, which features a large pool with an island in the middle where the Emperor had private
conversations; the Greek and Latin libraries, the beautiful reflecting pool, and his recreation of the Egyptian Canopus, for which a 130-yard canal
lined with caryatids was built.
When you return to Rome, relax a while before heading to Trastevere for dinner. The name means "across the Tevere," which is the Latin name for
the Tiber. Many frequent visitors to Rome consider Trastevere the most authentic part of the city. The narrow, winding streets are among the most
picturesque in the city. And the cafes radiating from the piazza are charming.
Go before 7PM and you’ll be able to tour Santa Maria in Trastevere, Rome’s first Christian church. Dating from the 4th century and updated in
the 12th, the church contains many beautiful mosaics by Pietro Cavallini.
There are several restaurants in Trastevere that cater to tourists with strolling musicians and period costumes. There are also several outstanding
restaurants in the area. But we recommend that you simply wander the neighborhood until you find someplace that strikes your fancy. You can
hardly go wrong here. And ambience is as much a part of dining here as the food itself.
Day 14 - Rome
Today is yours to do as you please. There are still many wonderful things to see and do in Rome. So plan the day according to your interests and
enjoy.
Noted for its sweeping views of the city, the Janiculum Hill is especially appealing in the early morning. And there are several attractions in
addition to the views.
You can hike up the hill or save your strength and take a taxi to Villa Farnesina. Built in 1508 for a Sienese banker, the early Renaissance villa has
been recently restored. It contains frescoes by the architect Peruzzi, Raphael, and his students.
Across from the Villa, the Palazzo Corsini contains the Galleria Nazionale d’Arte Antica. The Palazzo has an interesting history, having hosted
Michelangelo, Bramante, and Erasmus. In fact, Queen Christina of Sweden died here in 1689.
The gallery displays the work of Rubens, Caravaggio, Van Dyck and numerous Italian painters. Rome’s Botanical Gardens are behind the
Palazzo. They’re a pleasant place for a stroll.
On your way down the hill, stop at Villa Lante, a Renaissance summer retreat that has lovely views of the whole city.
If it’s Sunday when many stores are closed, shoppers can get a fix at Porta Portese flea market. Known to the locals as Mercato delle Pulci, the
market is near the Porta Sublicio in Trastevere. With 4,000 stalls, it’s the largest in Italy and the array of goods is staggering.
Castel Sant Angelo, on the west side of the Tiber in front of Ponte Sant’Angelo, was begun in 139AD as a mausoleum for the Emperor Hadrian.
During the Middle Ages, the fortress became a place of refuge for the Popes. It was linked to the Vatican by a series of underground
passageways.
Those interested in history will find much to appreciate here from the glorious Renaissance Apartments to the ancient prison cells beneath the
castle. There’s a display of ancient arms and armor and great views from the terrace.
Rome’s magnificent churches provide a vividly illustrated history of art and architecture. San Clemente, not far from the Colosseum, is effectively
a time machine, transporting visitors from the 12th-century church at street level, to the 4th-century church beneath it, to the 1st-century Roman
apartment under that. You can explore the subterranean grottoes and walk to a public building dating from the 1st century AD on your own.
Not far from San Clemente, the Basilica di San Giovanni in Laterano is the Cathedral for the diocese of Rome. The Pope celebrates mass here
several times a year. Built in 314 by Constantine -- the first Christian Emperor -- the church has been rebuilt many times and today it is
distinguished by a Baroque interior designed by Borromini in the 17th century.
The cloisters here were built in 1220 and they are lovely. The attached Chapel of San Venanzio is decorated with 7th-century mosaics. And the
adjoining palace was the home of the Popes until the 13th century.
Rome’s two other exceptional churches are on the neighboring Esquiline Hill. San Pietro in Vincoli (St. Peter in Chains) contains the chains used
to confine St. Peter and Michelangelo’s Moses, which was created as part of the unfinished Tomb of Pope Julius II.
Santa Maria Maggiore is a composite of architectural elements from the 5th through the 13th centuries. Highlights here include the Gothic tomb
of Cardinal Rodriguez, the 16th-century Cappella Sistina, the Coronation of the Virgin mosaic, and the beautiful coffered ceiling.
Lovers of the decorative arts should visit the Palazzo Venezia across from the Victor Emmanuel Monument (the big, ugly white thing dominating
Piazza Venezia). Built in the 15th century for the Venetian Cardinal who became Pope Paul II, the Palazzo became Mussolini’s headquarters
during the Fascist era. He addressed the crowds from the balcony in the center.
The museum contains a double portrait by Giorgione, Renaissance paintings and wood panels, a fantastic zodiac ceiling, a large collection of
ceramics and porcelain, and terra cotta prototypes of Bernini’s Fontana del Tritone. The adjoining Church of San Marco contains a wonderful
9th-century mosaic in the apse.
Whatever you do in the morning, be sure to leave time for afternoon shopping. Most shops reopen after lunch around 3:30PM and close about
7:30PM. Leather, jewelry, housewares, art and antiques are all top quality.
The streets around the Spanish Steps -- Via Condotti, Via Frattina, and Via Borgognona -- are lined with some of Italy’s poshest fashion houses
and designers. You’ll find Bulgari, Giorgio Armani, Fendi, Gucci, and Givenchy here.
Via Corso near the Piazza del Popolo offers some less expensive alternatives.
At the top of the Spanish Steps, there are many stylish boutiques along Via Sistina all the way to Piazza Barberini. Take a left after Bernini’s
Fontana del Tritone onto Via Veneto. Despite having lost some of its 1960s glamor, Via Veneto still has much to offer shoppers. While you’re
there, duck into legendary Harry’s Bar for a cocktail.
Food lovers should visit Castroni near the Vatican. La Rinascente and Standa are the city’s major department stores.
For your last night in Rome, splurge with dinner at La Terrazza in the Hotel Eden at the top of the Spanish Steps or at Relais Le Jardin in the
Hotel Lord Byron at the edge of the Villa Borghese gardens.
If energy permits, enjoy one last stroll after dinner through the Eternal City.