Day 6/7/8 - Wine Country
Spend the next three days enjoying the good life in the Napa and Sonoma
Valleys. Start at least one morning with a hot air balloon ride over
the vineyards. Sunrise flights culminate with a gourmet breakfast with
local bubbly. Above the West Ballooning will pick you up at your hotel
and guarantee you a maximum of four or six passengers.
Another must-do while you’re here is the Napa Valley Wine Train. One of
the "Top 20 Railroads in the World" according to the International
Society of Railway Travelers, the wine train combines everything that’s
wonderful about the region -- fantastic food, wine, and scenery.
Brunch, lunch, and dinner trips are available in the meticulously
restored Pullman lounge and dining cars, where etched glass, Honduran
mahogany, and polished brass are the order of the day. The 36-mile,
three-hour trips leave from the town of Napa and travel to St. Helena
before returning.
If you want to taste with reckless abandon there are several tour
companies that will chauffeur you among the wineries. Antique Tours has a fleet of 1947 and 1948 Packard convertible limousines and California Wine Tours and Transportation offers private and group tours.
Another option is to tour the region by bicycle. Napa Valley Bike Tours
offers both tours and bike rentals for those who prefer to go on their
own.
There are two main roads through the Napa Valley: the St. Helena
Highway (29) and the Silverado Trail. Though many of the wineries
you’ll want to visit are off Highway 29, the Silverado Trail is much
more pleasant, so make an effort to enjoy the bucolic charms of this
back road whenever possible. On summer weekends, the St. Helena Highway
can be packed.
The main towns in the Napa Valley are (from north to south) Calistoga,
St. Helena, Rutherford, Yountville, and Napa. There are more wineries
than you could visit if you spent weeks here doing nothing but tasting.
So choose two or three per day and leave some time for enjoying Napa’s
many other attractions.
Calistoga, named by Sam Brannan who wanted to position the town as the
Saratoga of California, has been a spa since the first resort opened in 1859. The sparkling, mineral-rich waters here are the main draw
and today, there’s no end to the pampering you can receive. Don’t
expect luxury though, unless you stay at the Sonoma Mission Inn and Spa.
Calistoga Spa and Hot Springs has four mineral pools for soaking and
they also offer mud baths, massages, wraps, and other health and beauty
treatments. Indian Springs has the largest mineral pool, volcanic mud
baths, and a bath house built in 1913. Lavender Hill Spa
specializes in aromatherapy, massages, and herbal treatments for
couples.
If you’ve never been to Yellowstone, consider driving one mile north of
town to see the Old Faithful Geyser. It shoots jets of steam and water
60 feet into the sky every 35 to 50 minutes, making it one of just three
regularly spouting geysers in the world.
Art lovers and history buffs will enjoy a visit to the Sharpsteen
Museum, created by Ben Sharpsteen, an animator at Disney Studios for 30
years. The museum contains several dioramas of early Calistoga and one
of the town’s 14 original cottages.
One of the most appealing wineries in Calistoga is Chateau Montelena
which is housed in a 19th-century French-style chateau surrounded by
Chinese gardens and a manmade lake. Chateau Montelena participated in a 1976 blind taste test in which
French judges proclaimed their 1973 Montelena Chardonnay the winner.
Today, they produce award-winning Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Clos Pegase is noteworthy because it was designed by architect Michael
Graves in 1986 as a "Temple of Wine." The result is a postmodern
interpretation of an ancient Mediterranean structure. Tours are
conducted at 11AM and 2PM and you can picnic under a 300-year old oak.
If you didn’t visit one of the sparkling wine producers in the Anderson
Valley, Schramsberg Vineyards is a good stop. The extensive network of
caves here was hand-dug by Chinese laborers at the turn of the century
and the winery became a designated California Landmark in 1957. When
Richard Nixon toasted Chinese Premier Cho En-Lai in 1972, it was with a
glass of Schramsberg Blanc de Blanc. Tours are by appointment only, so
if you’d like to visit, make reservations in advance.
Good restaurants in Calistoga include the All Seasons Café, Catahoula,
and the Wappo Bar & Bistro.
South of Calistoga, Sterling Vineyards is one of the most striking
wineries in Napa. The white-washed building looks like it was plucked
from Santorini and placed on a 300-ft. hill overlooking the valley. The
winery is reached by an aerial tramway from the parking lot and there’s
a Visitor’s Center and self-guided tour. Sterling produces Sauvignon
Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Just north of the town of St. Helena, Beringer is one of Napa’s
oldest continually operating wineries. You’ll know you’re there when
you drive through the Row of Elms along Highway 29. The winery, which
was built in 1876, is a designated historical landmark and it’s one of
the most impressive in Napa. Tours culminating with tastings are given
at 10:45AM, 1:30PM, and 2PM daily.
St. Helena is one of the most charming towns in Napa, filled with
stylish shops, boutiques, and restaurants. Robert Louis Stevenson
settled outside Calistoga and wrote about the Napa Valley in his
"Silverado Squatters." Fans of his work can visit the Silverado Museum
in a Victorian house that has more than 8,000 documents, photographs,
manuscripts, and personal items related to the author.
If you’d like to go for a stroll, Bale Grist Mill State Historical Park
has several nice walks through forests and meadows.
Foodies will want to visit the Culinary Institute of America in the old
Greystone Winery. In addition to acres of vineyards, herb and vegetable
gardens, the Institute has a kitchen shop, a wine museum, and a
library. They offer several cooking demonstration a day -- reservations are required. The Wine Spectator Greystone Restaurant here serves
Mediterranean influenced dishes.
Other good restaurants in St. Helena include Terra, and Tra Vigne. If you prefer to picnic, V. Sattui Winery south
of St. Helena has a wonderful deli with more than 200 kinds of cheese,
cold cuts, salads, and desserts. Their shady picnic area is very
popular. Off the Silverado Highway, Rutherford Hill Winery is also a
great picnic spot.
Just south of town, Merryvale occupies the stone buildings of the old
Sunny St. Helena winery. They offer highly informative two-hour
tasting seminars on Saturday and Sunday mornings at 10:30AM.
Reservations are required. Merryvale’s Profile 1997 was selected as the
number eight wine in Wine Spectator’s list of the Top 200 Wines of 2000.
The next town south is Rutherford, known for its outstanding Cabernet
Sauvignons. The town itself doesn’t have much to offer, but there are
so many great wineries here that choosing which to visit can be really
tough.
Beaulieu Vineyards (BV) was founded by Georges de Latour in 1900. Their
Rutherford and Georges de Latour Private Reserve set the bar for
California Cabs. Beaulieu offers tours, and regular and reserve
tastings.
The Rubicon Estate (previously known as the Niebaum-Coppola Estate), housed in the old Inglenook Chateau, is a
must-see. The Chateau itself is gorgeous with beautiful stained glass
and a hand-carved stairway. The Centennial Museum contains items
tracing Inglenook’s history and memorabilia from Coppola’s film,
including Vito Corleone’s desk from "The Godfather," numerous Oscars,
and an automobile from the movie "Tucker." One hour tours are available at
10:30AM, 11:30AM, 12:30PM and 2:30PM.
At $25 per person, the tours here are the most expensive in Napa, but you can stroll the beautiful grounds for free.
Cakebread Cellars, a small, family-owned operation has tours by
appointment and daily tastings. Cakebread placed 7th in Wine & Spirits
2000 annual restaurant poll of the top ten wineries overall.
Built in the late 1880s, the Oakville Grocery is the best reason to
visit tiny Oakville. They have gourmet treats from paté to hard-to-find
wines — everything for a sensation picnic or pre-dinner snack.
Oakville is better known as the home of legendary Robert Mondavi and his
joint venture with Baron Phillippe de Rothschild, Opus One.
Modeled after a Franciscan Mission, Robert Mondavi Winery is arguably
the most important in California. A consistent innovator and
tireless promoter of California viticulture, Mondavi invented Fume
Blanc. The 75-minute tours here are a crash course in wine-making,
following the path from the vine to the glass. More extensive tours and
tastings are available. Reservations are recommended.
Just down the road and across the street, Opus One should be on any Napa
Valley short list. Created to combine the best practices of French and
California winemakers, Opus One was begun in 1980. The striking white
building was designed by the architects of the Transamerica Pyramid in
San Francisco and it’s quite unlike anything else in the valley.
Among the best -- and most expensive -- wines produced in California,
Opus One wines are produced from grapes hand-picked on the estate. The
wine is aged 18 months in French oak and then aged another 18 months in
the bottle.
Complimentary tours are daily at 10:30AM by appointment only. Tastings
are available following the tour starting at $25 and are a must for
serious wine lovers.
The little town of Yountville has some of the best restaurants and the
best shopping in Napa. Housed in a 130-year-old winery, Vintage 1870
has 34 stylish shops, galleries, and restaurants. The stores offer
unique gifts, housewares, clothes, and crafts and the ambience is
outstanding.
Domaine Chandon, owned by legendary French Champagne house Moet &
Chandon, was the first French foray into California. With its lovely
gardens, ponds, ancient oaks, and roses bordering the vines, it’s a
lovely spot for a stroll. The hourly tours here describe the Methode
Champenoise used to make sparkling wines. The restaurant is one of the
top two or three in Napa.
Other good restaurants in Yountville include Brix, Bouchon, French Laundry,
Mustards Grill, and Bistro Jeanty.
Also in Yountville off the Silverado Trail, Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars was
the other California winery to beat the French at their own game in
1976. Today, Stag’s Leap produces some of the best Chardonnay to come
out of California.
Napa is the largest town in the valley and with its pretty Victorian
houses, it’s worth a stroll.
Trefethen Vineyards, built in 1886, is the last three-level, wooden,
gravity-powered winery in Napa. Trefethen wines are made
exclusively from estate-grown grapes and distribution is extremely
limited. Standouts include Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The property
has been lovingly restored and there are antique farming implements and
winemaking tools displayed. Tours are by appointment only.
Affiliated with the French Champagne house of Taittinger, Domaine
Carneros occupies a Louis XV style chateau modeled after the Taittinger
family country estate. It’s one of the most beautiful wineries in the
Napa Valley. Tastings and tours are available without reservations.
To learn about a different kind of spirit, visit the Carneros Alambic
Distillery where they make and age fine brandy. It’s interesting, but
be aware that tastings are unavailable -- it’s against the law.
Modern art lovers should visit the Hess Collection Winery and Vineyards
to see the art collection of Donald Hess which includes work by Francis
Bacon, Robert Motherwell, Robert Rauschenberg and Frank Stella. The
winery, which dates from 1903, once belonged to Christian Brothers.
And the Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay produced at the estate are
excellent.
Golfers can play Vintner’s Golf Course outside Yountville or Chardonnay Golf Course in Napa.
After exploring Napa, Sonoma’s lack of traffic and laid-back lifestyle
can be just what the doctor ordered. The towns along the Sonoma Valley
wine route are (from north to south) Healdsburg, Santa Rosa, Kenwood,
Glen Ellen, and Sonoma.
There are bike rentals available in each of the towns, and if you’re in
fairly good shape that’s a pleasant way to explore.
At the intersection of three great wine-producing
regions (the Alexander, Dry Creek, and Russian River Valleys), Healdsburg is the
least crowded and in many ways, the most inviting. The surrounding
countryside is gorgeous and unspoiled and the town is centered around a
charming plaza. Country stores, produce markets, and antique shops vie
for your attention. And there are some lovely inns and restaurants to
choose from.
If you’re in the area on a Saturday in season, don’t miss the Farmers’
Market. Another good source for picnic supplies is the Healdsburg
branch of the Oakville Grocery.
One of the best wineries in the neighborhood is actually ten miles north
in Geyserville. Clos du Bois produces a highly regarded
barrel-fermented Chardonnay, a Cabernet Sauvignon that’s fermented for
up to four weeks and then aged in oak, and a Merlot that’s aged in oak
for 18 months. The staff in their tasting room is extremely
knowledgeable and friendly.
Ferrari-Carano is one of the most attractive wineries in Sonoma. Their
Villa Fiore estate is surrounded by beautiful gardens and the tasting
room is modeled after those in the chateaux of France. They produce
Fume Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Zinfandel, a Tuscan-style Sangiovese/cab
blend called Siena, and a Reserve Red called Tresor.
Also in Healdsburg, Rodney Strong Vineyards, founded in 1959, was one of
the first wineries in the region to vineyard-designate its wine. They
produce Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, and Pinot Noir from
vineyards in the Alexander, Russian River, and Dry Creek Valleys, as
well as Zinfandel in the 90-year-old River West vineyard. During the
summer, concerts are held on the green and there’s a lovely picnic
area. There are daily tours at 11AM and 3PM and complimentary
tastings.
Santa Rosa is the largest town in the region, and it has several
interesting attractions. The Santa Rosa Visitor's Center is
housed in the restored train station at Historic Railroad Square. It’s
a good place for maps and information about wineries and other
attractions in the area.
The square is surrounded by blocks of restored turn-of-the-century
buildings filled with boutiques, restaurants and antique stores.
Those who enjoy gardens will want to visit the Luther Burbank Home and
Gardens, where the botanist spent 50 years hybridizing 800 species of
plants. There are self-guided tours through the gardens, which have
been completely restored, and exhibits about Burbank’s work.
Across the street in Juilliard Park is the Church Built from One Tree,
which was created in 1873 using the lumber from a single giant redwood.
Today, the church houses the Robert L. Ripley Memorial Museum. Drawings
by the Santa Rosa cartoonist, famous for "Ripley’s Believe It or Not!"
are displayed here.
Also in town, the Sonoma County Museum in the restored 1909 Post Office
and Federal Building exhibits 19th-century landscapes painted in the
area.
On Wednesday nights in summer, there’s a popular Farmers’ Market on
Fourth Street. The best places to eat in Santa Rosa are John Ash & Co.
and Lisa Hemenway’s.
Deciding which Santa Rosa winery to visit is easy. Matanzas Creek not
only produces some of California’s best wine, their winery is surrounded
by acres of lavender. Before the lavender is harvested in June, you’d
swear you were in Provence. In addition to the lavender fields, there
are six beautiful gardens. You can take a self-guided tour of the
grounds, enjoy a complimentary tasting, and then shop for
lavender-scented products in the gift shop.
There’s not much more to the town of Kenwood than a historic train
station, but there are several wineries worth visiting here, and the
Kenwood Restaurant is very good.
Chateau St. Jean, as the name suggests, is styled after a Mediterranean
chateau and surrounded by lovely gardens. You can take the self-guided
tour, climb the tower for wonderful views of the vineyards, and then
picnic on the beautiful grounds. Chateau St. Jean Cabernet Sauvignon
has been served at the White House.
Kenwood Vineyards was founded in 1906 when Jack London lived at the
estate next door. Kenwood still grows its grapes on the Jack London
Ranch for their award-winning Cabernet Sauvignon, Zinfandel, Merlot, and
Pinot Noir. The tasting and reception rooms are located in a complex of
old, weathered barns.
The town of Glen Ellen might as well be named Londonville, so pervading
is the preoccupation with author and man-of-action Jack London. The
most appealing shops in town are located in Jack London Village, the
Jack London Saloon is a popular watering hole, and Jack London State
Historic Park in the hills above town contains the remains of Wolf House
-- the home that burned down before he could move in -- and the House of
Happy Walls, a museum with London’s art collection and memorabilia from
his life and travels.
The park is a really pleasant spot with more than ten miles of trails
through oak, madrona, and redwoods. The author’s grave is here under
centuries old oaks.
The Benziger Family Winery offers more than almost any winery in the
region. Here, you can take a comprehensive self-guided tour, hop on a
tram pulled by a tractor for a 40-minute tour through the vineyards,
visit their art gallery which showcases art commissioned for Benziger
labels, or picnic in the estate’s redwood grove. Tickets for the tram
tour are limited, so if you’re interested, stop by early in the day to
ensure a space.
The restaurant at the Glen Ellen Inn is your best bet in town.
Sonoma, designed by a Mexican general named Vallejo in 1835, has a
central plaza surrounded by historic buildings which now house
attractive shops, galleries, and cafes. There’s a market on the plaza
Tuesdays from 5PM until dusk and another at Depot Park on Friday
mornings.
The Mission San Francisco Solano de Sonoma was the last and northernmost
of the Franciscan missions built in California. Today, the mission is a
museum displaying 19th-century watercolors of other California missions.
There are several fine adobe structures in Sonoma, including the Sonoma
Barracks. Begun in the 1830s, the barracks were the headquarters of
General Vallejo. You can also visit the General’s Victorian home and
garden, Lachryma Montis. The roses here are the oldest in town and the
house is furnished in the style of the period.
Next to the Barracks, the Toscana Hotel was built in the 1850s as a
general store. The hotel was restored by the League for Historic
Preservation and it’s open on weekends for tours.
If you’re shopping for picnic supplies, try the Sonoma Cheese Factory
and the Sonoma French Bakery. If you prefer to dine in, Della
Santina’s and The Girl and the Fig are good choices.
Zinfandel lovers shouldn’t miss Ravenswood, which has set the bar for
the big, bold reds. Their slogan, "No wimpy wine," kind of says it
all. They currently produce about 400,000 cases a year, of which 70% is
Zinfandel. Ravenswood hosts barbecues on summer weekends featuring
grilled trout, salmon, ribs, or chicken. Tours are at 10:30AM daily
and reservations are required.
Sebastiani Vineyards, founded by an Italian winemaker in 1904, underwent a seismic retrofit. You can taste Sebastiani wines, shop for European housewares, take a trolley or historical tour, at Sebastiani Vineyards and Hospitality Center.
Founded in 1857, Buena Vista Winery is the oldest premium winery in
California. In fact, the history of California winemaking began here
when Hungarian Count Agoston Haraszthy brought vines back from Europe.
Two of the estate’s buildings are registered historic landmarks and were
built using the limestone Chinese laborers excavated while digging the
aging caves.
You can tour Buena Vista on your own or sign up for a guided
tour. The grounds here are wonderful for picnics.
Owned by the same family for six generations, the Gundlach-Bundschu
Winery was named "Rhinefarm" by its founder. There’s lots going on
here. On summer weekends, Shakespeare’s plays alternate with outdoor
movies like "Dr. Strangelove" or "Barbarella" in the outdoor
amphitheater. And there are hiking trails and picnic tables overlooking
the pond. Guided tours include a stroll through their 10,000-ft. wine
cave.
South of Sonoma, Gloria Ferrer Champagne Caves is owned by a Spanish
family who has been making sparkling wines for more than 500 years.
The Ferrers also own Freixenet, Spain’s top producer of cava and the
largest sparkling wine producer in the world. The winery would look
perfectly at home in Catalonia and there’s a lovely veranda overlooking
the rolling vineyards from which to sip your bubbly. Gloria Ferrer also
produces and sells gourmet grapeseed oil and condiments. Tours are given
several time a day. Call for a schedule.
Founded by members of the Sebastiani family, Viansa Winery and Italian
Marketplace is a foodie’s dream. The complex was designed to resemble a
Tuscan village and olive trees were imported from Italy to complete the
effect, which is charming. Tours are by appointment, but you can wander
on your own. The Marketplace is a wonderful spot for gourmet gifts or
picnic supplies. And during the summer, Viansa has frequent jazz
concerts at Cucina Viansa on the Plaza in Sonoma.
Viansa also has a 90-acre man-made wetlands preserve that provides
habitat for up to 10,000 birds. Two-hour tours are available every
other Sunday from March through June.
For your last night in the Wine Country, splurge with dinner at Auberge
du Soleil in Rutherford.
Day 9 -- San Francisco/Homeward
Return to San Francisco this morning for your trip home.